September 1st, 2010

Hello Me, Welcome Back!

by Brian
Early Domestic Architecture of Pennsylvania

Early Domestic Architecture of Pennsylvania

It’s been quite a while since I posted to 98 Market St. and for that I apologize. Truth be told I’ve done very little work to the house in the last several weeks, but I should be back in the swing of things soon.  I’ve been spending the little bit of spare time that I’ve had researching  and trying to find the perfect balance between the modern comforts and modern building ingenuity and preserving the heritage and history of my home.  This isn’t going to be easy.

I have a couple of books that I’ve been consulting and am certainly in the market for recommendations.  The two I’ve been perusing are Federal Style Patterns 1780-1820 and  Early Domestic Architecture of Pennsylvania
.  Neither quite fit my home to be honest, but they’ve both given me valuable insight into what fits geographically and chronologically into my home’s renovation.  My house seems to have started it’s life as a rather plain example of Georgian Colonial architecture and grew north with haphazard additions towards Chestnut St. as the decades passed.   I’d like to not just restore it to it’s roots, but enhance it with some of the elegance it’s lacked throughout it’s history.  Did anyone ever see this coming?  Me? Talking about elegance?

In the coming days I’ll review the two books mentioned above.  Stay tuned.

July 18th, 2010

@Make_It_Right, my boss was at…

by Brian

@Make_It_Right, my boss was at Skills USA a few weeks ago, and said you spoke and were fantastic. Keep up the great work!

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July 14th, 2010

Free: River Stone

by Brian

I’ve got a ton of river stone available if anyone is interested. Free for the taking if you’re willing to pick it up.

July 14th, 2010

Tearing out the old cast iron …

by Brian

Tearing out the old cast iron coal stove for recycling!

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July 13th, 2010

Follow Me on Twitter

by Brian

If you’re a fan of 98 Market St., you’ll be pleased to know I just signed up for a Twitter account for this website! You can follow me @98market.

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July 13th, 2010

Best Way To Remove Plaster?

by Brian
The Library before being gutted

The library before I gutted it.

I’m two rooms in to an almost total gut job in my old 1850′s home in central Pennsylvania, and I find that as I progress I’m constantly finding better ways to do things. Today I’m left wondering: when I gut a room sheathed in horse hair plaster and lathe, am I doing it the best way possible?

In the first room that I gutted (the master bedroom) I simply pounded at the walls with my trusty Estwing and a truckload of reckless abandon. In hindsight I realized that this method was not the best. First of all, I didn’t bother to protect the rest of the downstairs from dust because I intended to work on it soon after. That was just stupid and I knew I should have hung plastic even before I picked up a hammer. Second, horse hair plaster is heavier than it looks, and it’s a lot easier to shovel it without long sticks of lathe mixed in.

For the second room (the library) I refined my technique, if you can call anything involving a sledge hammer “refined.” Above all else, make sure you’re wearing a respirator for this job!

  1. I protected the rest of the house by stapling up a plastic sheet across the interior wall where the library meets the rest of the house. The plastic did an amazing job of keeping the mess isolated.
  2. I removed all outlet covers, baseboard heat controls, molding, and anything else on the outside of the plaster.
  3. Starting at the bottom corner of each wall, I “speared” at the wall with the wide-end of my sledge hammer. Using the wide edge instead of actually hammering at the wall knocked the plaster off the wall while leaving the lathe in place.
  4. Tossed all of the plaster out the window into my dumpster.
  5. Pulled the lathe with a hammer and wrecking bar.I decided to take the time and remove all of the nails from the lathe and stack it for use later. This is incredibly time-consuming, but resulted in several pounds of recyclable metal and lots of lathe, which can be reused later for shims, leveling walls before hanging dry wall, firewood, or crafts. If you don’t care about reuse or recycling, skip this time-consuming step and just toss it in your dumpster.
  6. Depending on whether or not your walls are insulated and what kind of insulation it is, you may have to remove it as you pull the lathe. I had blown-in urea formaldehyde insulation which looks like packed snow and is especially nasty when you breath it in.  Wearing gloves and a respirator, I pulled this stuff out, bagged and sealed it, and threw it in the dumpster.
  7. Some plaster will accumulate behind the lathe. You can shovel it up easily once the lathe is removed.
  8. Sweep up and dump any remaining debris with a push broom.
  9. Go over the entire room with a Shop-Vac.  Make sure you use a cartridge filter as well as a bag, or the plaster dust could kill your vacuum.

So that’s my process and it worked well for me.  Do you have a better way to remove horse hair plaster and lathe?  Drop a comment below!

July 8th, 2010

Plaster Vs. Shop-Vac

by Brian
Project Worksheet
Description Price
Shop-Vac $130.60
Cartridge Filter $11.93
Filter Bags $12.50

One Shop-Vac and $120 later I’ve learned a very valuable lesson: when cleaning up plaster dust (and in my case urea formaldehyde insulation insulation), be sure to use both a catridge filter as well as a filter bag.  I made the mistake of thinking the cartridge filter was sufficient.

Little did I realize the tiny particles from the horse hair plaster and the insulation I was sucking up completely covered the cartridge filter and caused the motor on my Shop-Vac to overheat.  Lesson learned!

June 30th, 2010

Project: The Library

by Brian

My girlfriend Pam will be moving in at the end of the month, and I’m in a race against time to complete the room that I promised her months ago.  She’ll be going back to college in the fall and I thought, what better gift for my beautiful bookworm than her very own library?

As I’ve planned it, this project will have the following steps:

1. Gut the Room, Part 1: Since my house used to be a dentist’s office, as one person put it “every room is a kitchen.” There are pipes and wires everywhere.  The first step is to remove all unnecessary plumbing and move the wiring so it’s safe and out of the way for the second stage of demolition.

2. Gut the Room, Part 2: Originally I planned on keeping the old horse hair plaster walls and repairing them, but the wallpaper was hiding one too many cracks and holes for me to deal with.  I’ve rented a dumpster for the weekend to remove the hourse hair plaster and lathe.

3. Add a Door/Reframe : The room was previously partitioned into 2 separate offices.  I removed the non-bearing wall in the center months ago, but the two doorways still remain.  I’m going to remove the old door frames and add the french door in their place.

3. Rewiring: The room that will eventually be the library had lots of outlets in some very unique locations and absolutely no lighting (it had lights in the drop ceiling that I removed previously).  I’m going to add some outlets, add a CAT5 network connection, and a coax connection for cable television. In addition, I’m going to add some overhead lighting.

4. Reinsulating : The walls currently contain blown-in urea formaldehyde insulation. That’s going in the dumpster and getting replaced with fiberglass batts.

4. Drywall : This will be my first ever attempt at hanging and mudding drywall. Wish me luck.

5. Refinish the Floor: I was pleasantly surprised to find T&G oak flooring underneath the carpet.  I’m going to try and refinish it.

6. Paint and Trim: Pam wants red, black, and white.  I think its going to be difficult to execute but gorgeous if we do it right.

7. Built-in Bookshelves : I’m going to be winging this one!

June 18th, 2010

Restoring My Stone Foundation: The Result

by Brian
Completed Foundation Wall

I finally finished the first foundation wall. The picture really doesn't do it justice.

Some people have wondered about the results of restoring the inside walls of my stone foundation by removing the parge coat and mortaring and pointing the joints. I’ve posted a picture of the first wall so you can see for yourself. The light in my basement is terrible, and personally I don’t think this picture does it justice. But the wall itself is gorgeous. And in the last month-and-a-half several storms have passed through and I have yet to see any water. So good news there.

If you’d like to read about the method I used on this wall, visit the first article about Restoring my Stone Foundation.

June 17th, 2010

Work Smart, Not Hard

by Brian

Tuesday morning my dad and I worked on installing a new 3/4″ plywood subfloor in what is to eventually be the master bedroom in my house.  I started the job Tuesday night and inexplicably found myself carring sheets of tongue-and-groove plywood outside for cutting, then back inside for installation.  I suppose the idea was to avoid dust in the house (as though it’s so clean to begin with).

The next day I decided that was completely ridiculous. Dust is easy to move, plywood is not. I already has two pieces installed so we used that as a staging area from which to work.  All remaining pieces we did a dry fit, set the depth of the circular saw to 3/4″ (to cut the plywood but not the joists below it), then trimmed everything in place.  Worked like a gem!

For more ideas about how to save time during building and remodel projects, I can’t recommend Carpentry (For Pros By Pros) from Fine Homebuilding magazine enough.  It’s a collection of articles from Fine Homebuilding, and the first is all about time-saving: from making sure the lumber is stacked in the right order to acceptable margins of error when cutting lumber for certain uses.